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12V vs 24V power packs: which to choose

In short: At equal power, a 24V power pack draws half the current of a 12V one: thinner cables, lower voltage drop, less-stressed contactors and longer motor life. 12V remains mandatory where the on-board system is 12V without a converter — that is, on most trailers and light vehicles.

The physics: same power, half the current

Power is voltage times current. An 800 W motor draws about 65-70 A at 12V but only 33-35 A at 24V. That current flows through cables, connections and the contactor: halving it halves the losses, the contact heating and the likelihood of electrical failure — the number one cause of service calls on DC units.

Cables and voltage drop

At 12V every metre of cable matters: a 1-volt drop is nearly 10% of the supply, and the motor pays for it in torque and heat. Rule of thumb: cables as short and as thick as practical, clean tight connections, ground straight to the chassis. At 24V the same installation is far more forgiving.

When 12V is mandatory, when 24V pays off

If the available battery is the vehicle’s 12V one, the choice is made: converting is almost never worth it. 24V pays off on trucks and agricultural machines (which already carry it), on frequent cycles and on powers above 2 kW, where 12V currents become hard to manage. In between, the duty cycle decides: ask us for a sizing, it is free.

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